Grunge Chanel

If you see these chains up close, doesn't your pulse quicken? Don't you start to drool? I do. I greatly admire Mr. Karl. I really like the clothes he designs for Chanel, but above all, I can't help but admire that this man, almost eighty years old, is pure rock'n'roll. He designs, he has a sense of humor, he photographs, he makes musical compilations, he has a court of effeminate young men and mini-clones, he films, he makes his mark in the fashion world, speaking his mind freely about those he disagrees with, and a very long etcetera. Galliano and Decarnin have recently passed under the guillotine of his tongue, which seems to be above everything and everyone; and I say, at almost 80 years old, why wouldn't it be? He does whatever he wants. Karl is truly great, truly.

If you all see this chains right in front of you, does your pulse start to race? Don't you start to drool? I do. I admire Mr. Karl very much. I really love the clothes that he does for Chanel, but mostly, I can't stop admiring the fact that he is 80 years old and still pure rock'n'roll! He designs, he has a sense of humor, he's a photographer, he makes music compilations, he has an army of mini-me's and Adonis, he directs movies, he has the guts to toss out, without any guilt, whomever he dislikes, and tons of etc's about the guy. Galliano and Decarnin have been recently in the guillotine of his unapologetic opinions, and he seems to be above everyone and everything. So I say, being almost 80 years old.....why wouldn't he be? He does whatever he wants. That man, Karl, he's a legend.

Such is my admiration for Karlaiser (Karl + Kaiser) that for the last presentation, I brought Countess Mother so she could give me her verdict on why his couture jackets fit so well. As soon as she examined them closely, Countess Mother told me to forget about it, the fabric, by weight, by grammage, has nothing to do with what us mere mortals have access to. The linings are cut identically to the main fabric, which doubles/triples the sewing time. The extravagance in pattern making is a demonstration of power; constructing an entire puffed sleeve just so it adds more volume to the shoulder when covered is an excess. To my delight, the sleeves are narrow and have high armholes, an eternal battle we have in the workshop between the young sector and the experienced sector; to my dismay, the fantastic press managers (Diana and Assumpta, thanks for your patience) confessed to me that the production width is usually wider than the sample (a tiny point for the experienced sector). The finishes, the buttons, the braids are unique to them because they are exclusively made for them by these seven workshops listed in this article. In this other one, they list the steps from a Karlaiser sketch to the product's arrival in stores. Be warned, the Wall Street Journal Magazine has impressive fashion articles and, fortunately, they are far from the intellectual pretensions of others like Monocle (ugh, dense and now even with a perfume line and home goods; please don't try to manipulate me, if what you really want is for me to buy 60-pound dishcloths to feel superior, I know your game).

My admiration for Karlaiser (Karl + Kaiser) is such, that I took Mrs Condesa (my mother) to the latest presentation of his collection. I wanted a verdict from a veteran of the sewing art on why his jackets fit so well. With just one look up close, my mother said "forget it child". The fabrics and its weight are not in the hands of ordinary people. The linings are cut identicaly to the genre which duplicates/triplicates the sewing time. The extravagance on patterns is proof of power; to make a "ham arm" only to add volume to the shoulder is excessive. To my joy, sleeves are narrow and with high armholes. That is a battle I always have with my team; it's a battle between the newcomers and the old-timers. Despite my displeasure, the amazing ladies in charge of PR (Diana and Assumpta thanks for the patience) confessed to me that the production's width of the arms is usually bigger than the sample pieces....tiny tiny winner point for the old-timers. The fabrics, buttons, the plaits...only Karlaiser has them because are made for them exclusively in seven ateliers enlisted in this article. This other one enlists the steps that Karlaiser follows from the sketch until the arrival of the product to the stores. By the way, great tip: the Wall Street Journal Magazine has impressive articles about the fashion world, away from the intellectual pretensions of others like Monocle (ufff, so invasive! And now with a perfume line and a bunch of crap for your home. Please, do NOT try to deceive me with your 60 pounds dishcloths so I can feel superior. You don't fool me anymore you people! I know that trick by heart)

Returning to Karlaiser, to seal my love, in the latest winter collection, he reinterpreted the grunge boots for which I would have sold my CD collection in the 90s. That era when you could find Doctor Martens even in the most humble neighborhood shoe store, and thick sock manufacturers made a killing, because, friends, to avoid "raw flesh" type chafing, you had to wear them with hiking socks (ewww!!) or two pairs. Then there were leg warmers, a garment that, fortunately, I can boast of NEVER, ever having worn, aarghhhh.

Well, Karl has combined all this under the influence of Stone Temple Pilots' music and created the boots with the perfect sock warmers. Coachellas, you look silly with those sandals and those braided ribbons in your hair, stop with the pedicures already and put on some good boots to jump around in. Yes, even if it's the desert, we used to wear them even at New Year's Eve parties, oops, maybe that's something I shouldn't brag about either.