November 18, 2011
The Bar jacket, a Dior icon
Even those with little fashion knowledge have likely seen this two-piece ensemble that Christian Dior created as part of his first collection in 1947. In post-war Europe, such an extravagant display of femininity, opulence, and a lavish use of fabric was considered scandalous. Today, I've been asked to talk about it, and as a jacket lover, I couldn't resist the temptation to take a closer look at one of the most iconic jackets in fashion history, which serves as a personal source of inspiration.
The Bar jacket features a sculpted waist, an uplifted bust, soft shoulders, and rounded hips. It's one of those jackets that molds the figure when you put it on; it doesn't adapt to you, but rather you adapt to it, transforming you into something new. So new, in fact, that it was originally dubbed "The New Look" by Carmel Snow (editor-in-chief of Harper's Bazaar).
Today, the Bar jacket is a classic, an icon of the House of Dior, an absolutely desired and idolized object by its admirers, and a subject of study in any reputable patternmaking class. When studied closely, it proves to be particularly complicated to make; I would say it's almost a cross between a jacket and a corset. It fits very close to the body, the sizing is extremely narrow, with shoulders that sit perfectly and a wasp waist achieved by accentuating the hips with a series of soft pads that must be molded and attached to the jacket to create that distinctive flare below the waist.
At La Condesa, and with the deepest respect, we paid tribute to this jacket, alongside the designs of Milena Canonero in "The Age of Innocence," in last summer's collection and created our Amalfi jacket. A sincere and humble homage to one of the pieces I have most admired as an example of impeccable tailoring, original, flattering, groundbreaking, and tremendously versatile design.
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| Original sketches with specifications about the fabric type and consumption for the pieces that make up the New Look. |
Because ever since Dior created it, dozens of reinterpretations have been made by the house, especially by John Galliano (is it wrong to say we still miss him?), and today it is one of the most recognizable icons of the maison.
That's why it is featured in the video presenting Camille Micheli's new creation (head of accessories for the house of Dior), the "Mise en Dior" necklace, born from the dialogue between a pearl and the brand's most recognizable icons. If you want to know what the next icon is, our dear Doublecloth will introduce it to you.
Hugs and kisses,
La Condesa Bar
P.S.: By the way, I love Camille Micheli ever since she designed the Blasson collection with Pharrell Williams for LV. Damn visionaries, you designed my jewelry line before I even existed.